![]() The Original Prusa MK4 and Original Prusa XL are equipped with a loadcell, which will calibrate the first layer automatically. From here you can adjust it by rotating the knob. This will show the Live adjust Z value you have set in the First layer calibration. The most common approach is to perform the Live adjust Z during the print. ![]() The exact position can slightly vary, use the last chapter of the assembly manual of your printer to set the rough distance.Įxample of the MK3S extruder Live Adjust Z (while printing) The correctly assembled print head has the sensor always slightly above the nozzle, never at an equal level or below the nozzle (see the picture below). Going above zero into the positive values is not possible, this indicates either an issue with the measuring sensor (M.I.N.D.A., P.I.N.D.A., SuperPINDA) or incorrect alignment. The values of the Live adjust Z are typically in the range of -1.500 to -0.200. to get further from the print surface, turn the knob clockwise and continue lowering the negative value (e.g.to get closer to the print surface, turn the knob counter-clockwise and further increase the negative value (e.g.the default value before the First layer calibration starts at zero (0.000) for all printers.The reason for adjusting the distance is to mostly provide better adhesion of the extruded filament. Sometimes this value needs a slight adjustment and for this situation, there is an option called " Live adjust Z" (as you are mostly tuning it live during the first layers of your print). ![]() Then you may manipulate maximal values in slicer for further experimentation.Every FFF (Fused Filament Fabrication) printer requires a First Layer Calibration, which sets the vertical "Z" distance between the nozzle and the print surface. This will ensure to not exceed key limitations. So I say all it starts in the slicer software: increase speed there and re-caclulate. ![]() (I actually mean the speed of extrusion, so this may not be simple as just setting equal speed for perimeters and infill, but this does not change the conclusion below.) So if you ensure, that printing these middle surfaces is planned (in G-Code) with similar speed as walls, then (at least in theory) you may be able to increase overall speed, playing e.g. The real limit seems to be this middle part of print, and outer part is just cosmetics (probably calculated to print slower because of quality). ![]() Then we go into master question: 300% of what? Turning the speed knob during print will override all considerations that slicer took into account during calculations - and defintely override Max volumetric speed, which is key factor to limit pressure in the nozzle (vide clicking noise). The video " How fast can your hotend print?" presents experiment on this phenomena and its outcomes. However: if sides are printed ok, then why the middle couldn't? Because walls are printed slower? Indeed, the under-extrusion may quickly rise along with speed because of plastic deformation between extruder gears under pressure and slight slipping, which actually increases with speed. So even if it helped for the middle part (I doubt), the next it would ruin the print on sides by overextrusion. ![]()
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